I loved yesterday’s OFM. Maybe it’s just the long-weekend mood I was in, but everything seemed interesting and delicious – from Rachel Cooke daring to tell it like it is about task-obsessed men in the kitchen to Jay Rayner’s piece about Bruno Loubet’s swerve towards vegetables, following in the foodsteps of Passard the Great & Robuchon the Tagalong.
Bruno’s recipes seemed utterly doable, and as I have miso paste I needed to finish I went off to the market to pick up aubergines and asparagus to make recipe no 5 here.
My miso paste wasn’t sweet, so I added some cooked apples I had to hand. I didn’t want to faff about with chopping and deep frying onion rings so I added a tiny clove of fresh garlic before blitzing everything and roasted the asparagus to ensure a crispy texture. A squeeze of lime finished it off perfectly and the children approved. A keeper.


It would be easy, after nearly 30 years in Paris, to apply Parisian standards to the menus in Belfast’s cafés, bistros and brasseries, and scoff – and not in a good way. They’re just not doing it properly, you see. Serve good coffee then spike it with banana syrup? Thai green curry with chips? Cajun wraps and garlic potatoes everywhere else? I could, tutting like the starchiest of the growing breed of food “experts”, lament the impending, inevitable obliteration of palates reared on the plainest of produce – beef, lamb, root veg, pasteurised dairy – by their apparent desire for shockingly “inauthentic” food which assails and anaesthetises tastebuds in a deluge of heat, salt and fat.